I love how Frank Bruni describes this odd yet eccentric cuisine as “diplomatically incorrect.” He’s completely right. I mean, since when did anyone imagine conjuring up a name like “British-Indio-Asian” fusion, let alone food? While Double Crown’s food is superb and delightful, I was a bit disappointed that this fusion of sorts didn’t present itself within one dish. I was expecting some symphony of spiced curry mixed with a British classic (let’s say, pie). Instead, we got licorice flavored pie.
But don’t get me wrong. I thoroughly enjoyed my dinner here. It’s just that whenever I talk about Double Crown and describe it as British Asian fusion, the first question always is, “Whoa, what’s that?” and I can never give them a proper answer. I wonder why…
When Sabrina and I arrived at the restaurant, it was almost empty, save for a couple. See, that’s us below.
That was surprising considering it was 6:30pm. On the bright side, that meant quicker service. So we were promptly seated, handed our menus, given our water, and we in return, reciprocated by taking forever to order. It was difficult deciding what to get even though their menu is shorter than my resume. Eventually, with the help of our server, we ordered the Braised Pork Belly and the Crunchy Brussel Sprouts (usually a side) for appetizers.
The Braised Pork Belly was served on top of a bed of cooked greens and though tasty enough, wasn’t impressive. The brussel sprouts triumphed the pork. Honestly, as someone who’s never cooked brussel sprouts, I don’t imagine that they were hard to make. It was delicious, but nothing about it seemed difficult to replicate.
The entrees, however, were spectacular and definitely not up for replicating. Sabrina ordered the Pheasant Pie, which has a heavy licorice understone and I ordered the Spicy Ricotta Crepe. The Pheasant Pie is obviously very reminiscent of British savory pies and British game meat, but I’m not sure what side of the fusion name the Spicy Ricotta Crepe was supposed to represent.
Double Crown must have done a good job on the pie because Sabrina hates licorice, and yet she ate every last bite of that pie. It was served with a giant bed of fresh looking greens and the pie was beautifully bloated. My dish was equally as superb. I didn’t taste the spice, but I enjoyed how the squash turned into mush, bringing out its sweetness, which in turn was balanced by the ricotta. It’s also served with tomatoes and some decorative greens. There are four generous sized crepe wrapped bundles. This is NOT the dish to order if you’re going light. Between the cheese, the squash, and the sheer enormity of the portion (relative to a proper portion size), I felt full to the brim.
Oh but dessert! This was great because we ordered something that we were able to split evenly- literally. We ordered the pumpkin brioche served with chai ice cream. I thought the ice cream was genius, but Sabrina had her eyes on the broiche. So the dish parted ways and each half ended up in separate stomachs.
And how could I forgot! Instead of a bread basket, this is what you get before the food comes out. Long stripes of crackers with three different dipping sauces. They reminded me almost of fried wonton strips, but giant and without the grease.
Double Crown is moderately priced, with their entrees starting at $17. That being said, I haven’t seen anything else in NYC that offers a simliar cuisine, even if the fusion doesn’t manifest within one dish. And the bathrooms are beautiful. That’s when you know that a restaurant is up there- when their bathrooms make you feel like royalty.
MENU
316 Bowery
New York, NY 10012
Bleecker St. See Map | Subway Directions 
212-254-0350
You should also check out:
- The Great GoogaMooga | Prospect Park, Brooklyn
- An interview with Terry Chen of “Filled with Sweets”
- Co. Pizza
- Crif Dogs (take 2)- best hot dogs ever
- Saturday brunch at Locanda Verde
